A Mason company - serving Austin, TX
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Boral Windows & Doors Nationwide

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An open living space after a whole-home remodel
A remodeled living room with built-in shelves around the fireplace
A whole-home remodel with the living, dining and kitchen areas opened up
A wide opening with a new beam where the kitchen wall was removed
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Boral Windows & Doors: The Austin Owner’s Guide

If you have a Boral window or door that’s sticking, leaking, or failing at a hinge, roller, or lock, we can source the correct replacement part and install it right the first time. Typical Boral parts repair in Austin runs $180 – $800 installed depending on the component, and most hardware swaps take under two hours once we have the part in hand. You’ll usually notice the failure long before you need to name it: a patio door that suddenly takes two hands to slide, a casement window crank that spins without moving the sash, or a multi-point lock that won’t throw all three bolts anymore.

Call (903) 623-1966

Mason Remodeling Co Austin is an independent service provider. We’re not affiliated with Boral, but we work on their windows and doors regularly and know how their hardware is spec’d across model lines.

Key takeaways:

  • We match Boral parts by model number, glass code, and hinge or roller stamping, not by guessing.
  • Pricing is written before we start. You’ll see the part cost and labor as separate line items.
  • Isaac Pruett himself walks the job before we order anything, so the part gets matched once, not three times.
  • Call (903) 623-1966 and a live person answers. Tell me what’s wrong with it. We’ll figure out what it actually needs.

Which Boral Models This Applies To

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Boral’s window and door lines sold in Texas include aluminum-clad and vinyl variants that share a lot of hardware DNA across models. The compatibility gotcha owners hit most often: a roller assembly from a Boral sliding door built in 2015 won’t always fit the track profile on a 2019 unit, even when both are marketed as the same door line. Boral changed some roller housing dimensions when they moved certain models to stainless steel tracks. We verify by measuring the roller diameter, the housing width, and the track profile before ordering anything.

How to identify your unit: open the sash and look for a label on the edge of the door panel or the top rail of the window sash. You’re looking for a model code plus a glass construction code. But labels get painted over or peeled off. When that happens, we pull the hardware and read the stampings on the hinge, roller, or lock body. Boral hardware from suppliers like Truth Hardware and Roto carries part numbers that cross-reference directly. For locks, the tailpiece length and backset are the numbers that matter. For hinges, it’s the stack height and screw pattern.

OEM versus aftermarket: for Boral window and door hardware, OEM is the safer call on multi-point locks and tilt-latch assemblies, where a 2mm difference in latch throw means a door that doesn’t seal. On rollers and basic friction hinges, we’ve had good results with quality aftermarket equivalents that meet or exceed the original spec, and they cost 20 – 40% less. We’ll show you the difference and let you decide with the actual numbers in front of you.

Explore

Styles & brands we work with

Kitchen remodeling
Kitchen remodeling
Bathroom remodeling
Bathroom remodeling
Home additions & ADU
Home additions & ADU
Roofing
Roofing
Windows & doors
Windows & doors
Driveway & pavers
Driveway & pavers
Fence
Fence

Signs Your Boral Windows & Doors Is Failing

  • The door drags or stutters when you slide it. Rollers have flat-spotted or the bearings are bound up. In Austin, fine limestone dust from construction and decomposed granite from landscaping works into the roller bearings and grinds them down faster than you’d expect.
  • The crank spins but the sash barely moves. The gear inside the casement operator has stripped, or the torque arm has pulled out of its track. This is common on Boral casement windows after years of Texas sun heating the hardware through the glass.
  • The lock lever is stiff, or the door won’t lock at all. Multi-point lock rods get bent or the gearbox wears. Once one bolt stops aligning with its keep, owners often force the lever, which bends the connecting rod and makes the whole assembly worse.
  • You feel air or see daylight at a corner of the door panel. The panel has sagged because a hinge or roller worn down, which pulls the weatherstripping out of contact. The fix is hardware, not new weatherstripping, and cheap weatherseal won’t cover for a bad roller.
  • The window sash drops when you tilt it in for cleaning. Tilt latch springs have failed or the latch nose is worn. This is one of the most common Boral window calls we get in Austin, especially on second-story windows where owners clean less often and don’t notice the latches degrading.
Before & after

See the difference

Before - Recent ProjectBeforeAfter - Recent ProjectAfter
Recent Project
Before - Full RestorationBeforeAfter - Full RestorationAfter
Full Restoration
Before - Complete UpgradeBeforeAfter - Complete UpgradeAfter
Complete Upgrade

Replacement Cost & What’s Included

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Here’s what Boral window and door parts replacement looks like in Austin, installed.

Repair Type Typical Installed Cost What’s Included
Sliding door roller replacement (both rollers) $180 – $320 Rollers, cleaning of track, adjustment, test cycle
Multi-point lock replacement $280 – $550 Lock gearbox or full assembly, alignment, test locking
Casement window operator (crank) replacement $190 – $380 Operator, torque arm, handle, test cycle
Tilt latch replacement (pair) $140 – $260 Both latches, spring check, test tilt function
Full door panel re-hardware (rollers, latch, weatherseal) $400 – $800 All moving hardware, new weatherseal, final adjustment

The range is driven by two things: whether we’re replacing one component or a set, and whether your Boral unit is an older model that needs the part ordered versus a current model we can source same-day from a local supplier. You get a written price before we start. That price includes the part, the labor, and the trip. If we open up the door and find something we didn’t quote, we stop and talk to you before doing anything. No change orders without your sign-off.

Our workmanship warranty runs 365 days from the completion date. If a part we installed fails within the year, we come back and make it right at no charge. And if you call us about a repair you think we mishandled, you’ll talk to a person, not a claims process.

DIY or Call Us?

Here’s the honest split. What you can safely check yourself: look at the condition of the track, clean out debris, check whether the door is visibly out of level, and test whether the lock lever moves freely. Those observations help you describe the problem and help us quote it accurately over the phone.

What we’d rather you not do: pull a sliding door panel off its track, attempt to replace rollers or hinges, or force a multi-point lock. A sliding glass door panel weighs 80 to 150 pounds depending on the glass package. When a roller shears off the bracket and that panel drops, it can take a finger or a foot with it. Spring-tensioned casement hinges and tilt-latches under load deserve the same respect. This is not scare talk; it’s the difference between a $220 roller job and a much larger repair, or worse. One honest paragraph is all we need to make the point. Call (903) 623-1966 and we’ll send someone who knows the difference.

FAQs

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Getting started with Mason in Austin

Every project starts with a conversation and a written price. Here is how to take the first step.

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